Santorini

Santorini PDO dry white: lemon, wet stone and sea salt - Greece's signature white.

Mostly Assyrtiko, topped up with Athiri and Aidani. Usually unoaked, bone-dry and high in acidity, but with more body than you'd expect. Drinks well young and improves for years.

Mostly Assyrtiko, topped up with Athiri and Aidani. Usually unoaked, bone-dry and high in acidity, but with more body than you'd expect. Drinks well young and improves for years.

Assyrtiko: lemon-sharp, stony and salty, yet surprisingly full.

Santorini's main grape keeps very high acidity even in heat, giving citrus, stone and sea-spray flavours with real weight. Unoaked it's crisp and saline; oaked or old-vine it becomes rich and long-lived.

Santorini's main grape keeps very high acidity even in heat, giving citrus, stone and sea-spray flavours with real weight. Unoaked it's crisp and saline; oaked or old-vine it becomes rich and long-lived.

Grilled fish and seafood with young Santorini Assyrtiko.

The obvious island match: high-acid, salty Assyrtiko acts like a squeeze of lemon on grilled fish, octopus or calamari.

The obvious island match: high-acid, salty Assyrtiko acts like a squeeze of lemon on grilled fish, octopus or calamari.

Vinsanto: sun-dried, long-aged sweet wine - apricot, raisin, caramel and coffee.

Grapes are laid out in the sun for one to two weeks until they shrivel, then the sweet wine ages for years in old oak on the island. Rich but kept fresh by Assyrtiko's acidity. Not to be confused with Italy's Vin Santo.

Grapes are laid out in the sun for one to two weeks until they shrivel, then the sweet wine ages for years in old oak on the island. Rich but kept fresh by Assyrtiko's acidity. Not to be confused with Italy's Vin Santo.

Mavrotragano: the island's revived red - dark fruit, fresh acidity.

Nearly lost until a few growers bottled it from the late 1990s. Today it makes concentrated, juicy reds with black fruit and good freshness, sold as PGI Cyclades.

Nearly lost until a few growers bottled it from the late 1990s. Today it makes concentrated, juicy reds with black fruit and good freshness, sold as PGI Cyclades.

The other colour: a Mavrotragano red.

A rare revived island red - few friends at home will have tasted one.

A rare revived island red - few friends at home will have tasted one.

PDO (ΠΟΠ) Santorini = the island's protected appellation, Greece's top tier.

Greece uses the EU system: PDO at the top, with strict rules on area, grapes and yields. Santorini was one of Greece's first appellations, and PDO bottles traditionally carry a red band on the neck.

Greece uses the EU system: PDO at the top, with strict rules on area, grapes and yields. Santorini was one of Greece's first appellations, and PDO bottles traditionally carry a red band on the neck.

Vines woven into low baskets survive wind, sun and drought.

Growers coil the vines into ground-level baskets (kouloura). The grapes ripen inside, shaded from the sun and sheltered from strong summer winds, and the basket traps night-time sea moisture on an island with almost no rain.

Growers coil the vines into ground-level baskets (kouloura). The grapes ripen inside, shaded from the sun and sheltered from strong summer winds, and the basket traps night-time sea moisture on an island with almost no rain.

Santo Wines: the island co-operative - reliable, widely available Assyrtiko.

The growers' co-op, one of Santorini's top producers and among its best values. Its Assyrtiko is the easiest good bottle to find, on and off the island.

The growers' co-op, one of Santorini's top producers and among its best values. Its Assyrtiko is the easiest good bottle to find, on and off the island.

Nykteri: Santorini's traditional oak-aged, stronger Assyrtiko.

The name recalls pressing at night after the day's picking. Today it means a riper, fuller dry Santorini aged in oak - citrus and stone fruit with toast and a creamy texture.

The name recalls pressing at night after the day's picking. Today it means a riper, fuller dry Santorini aged in oak - citrus and stone fruit with toast and a creamy texture.

Reserve and Grande Reserve Santorini = oak and bottle aged before release.

On dry Santorini, Reserve (Επιλεγμένος) and Grande Reserve (Ειδικά Επιλεγμένος) mean the wine was aged in oak and bottle before release - Grande Reserve the longer of the two. Expect richer, toastier, rounder wine.

On dry Santorini, Reserve (Επιλεγμένος) and Grande Reserve (Ειδικά Επιλεγμένος) mean the wine was aged in oak and bottle before release - Grande Reserve the longer of the two. Expect richer, toastier, rounder wine.

Oak for Nykteri, Reserve and 'Barrel' wines - rounder and toastier.

Fermenting or ageing in oak gives a creamy texture and toast; Nykteri, Reserve and Grande Reserve all see oak, Grande Reserve the longest. Assyrtiko's acidity carries the oak well.

Fermenting or ageing in oak gives a creamy texture and toast; Nykteri, Reserve and Grande Reserve all see oak, Grande Reserve the longest. Assyrtiko's acidity carries the oak well.

Island reds (PGI Cyclades): revived Mavrotragano and Mandilaria.

Santorini's appellation is white and sweet only, so its rare reds go out as PGI Cyclades. Mavrotragano, rescued from near-extinction by Hatzidakis and Sigalas, gives concentrated dark-fruited reds with fresh acidity.

Santorini's appellation is white and sweet only, so its rare reds go out as PGI Cyclades. Mavrotragano, rescued from near-extinction by Hatzidakis and Sigalas, gives concentrated dark-fruited reds with fresh acidity.

Wild-yeast, organic and lees-aged wines - the island's low-intervention edge.

Some producers ferment with native yeasts and age on the lees (Hatzidakis, Gaia's Wild Ferment Assyrtiko). Expect more texture, nutty notes and individuality.

Some producers ferment with native yeasts and age on the lees (Hatzidakis, Gaia's Wild Ferment Assyrtiko). Expect more texture, nutty notes and individuality.

Phylloxera never took hold: ungrafted rootstocks centuries old.

Santorini's sandy volcanic soils keep out phylloxera, so vines grow on their own roots. Old root systems are kept while the baskets above are periodically renewed, giving some of Europe's oldest living vineyards.

Most of the world's vineyards were grafted onto American rootstock after phylloxera, the root louse, destroyed Europe's vines in the 19th century. Santorini escaped: its low-clay, pumice-rich soils are hostile to the insect, so PDO vines grow on their own roots. That changes how the vineyard ages. When the trunk and basket above ground become tired, growers cut them back and train a new basket from the same root system, so the roots can be far older than the visible vine. Average vine age is often quoted above 70 years, and producers such as Estate Argyros describe some plants as centuries old. Deep, established roots help the vine survive with almost no rain and push yields down further. When a producer labels an old-vine or single-vineyard cuvée, this living history is what the extra price is paying for: more concentration and a firmer, longer finish.

Santo Wines Nykteri: the co-op's oak-aged classic - an easy way into the style.

Mostly Assyrtiko with some Athiri and Aidani, and aged about six months in large French oak vats, so the oak frames the fruit rather than dominating it.

Nykteri was the island's traditional 'big' dry wine long before Assyrtiko became fashionable, and it is still easier to find on Santorini than abroad. The co-operative's version is a sensible benchmark: a classic blend of mostly Assyrtiko with some Athiri and Aidani, aged around six months in large five-tonne French oak vats rather than small new barrels. That keeps the island's lemony acidity and salty finish at the centre, with oak adding texture, a little toast and a creamy feel. Santo is one of Santorini's top producers and good value, so this is a fair-priced way to compare Nykteri with a regular Santorini from the same house. Other producers make richer versions in small barrels; Venetsanos, for example, uses 225-litre French oak for its all-Assyrtiko Nykteri.

Estate Argyros: old family estate; a set of named Assyrtiko cuvées and great Vinsanto.

One of Santorini's very top estates, and good value. Its Assyrtiko cuvées - Monsignori, Evdemon, Gerontampelo, Palatia - are the deep end of the island's whites.

Estate Argyros, founded in 1903 and now run by the fourth generation under Matthaios Argyros, is based in Episkopi Gonia and farms a large organic holding by island standards, with many vines around 70 years old and some far older. It ranks among Santorini's top producers and is good value for its class. The range climbs from Atlantis, an easy entry white, to the estate Santorini Assyrtiko and a group of named cuvées - Monsignori, Evdemon, Gerontampelo and Palatia - that show how much concentration old ungrafted vines can give. Argyros is just as important for Vinsanto: Matthaios's father built up the Vinsanto programme in the 1970s and 1980s, and the estate releases a current bottling alongside decades-old library wines.Its Vinsanto is intense and fresh, a benchmark for the style.

Domaine Sigalas Kavalieros: Imerovigli single vineyard, a benchmark Santorini.

Paris Sigalas founded this top Santorini estate in Oia in 1991. Kavalieros and the oak-aged Santorini Barrel are its flagships.

Domaine Sigalas, started in 1991 by mathematician Paris Sigalas in a family house in Oia and expanded with a purpose-built winery in 1998, is one of the island's two leading producers and good value too. It farms around 40 hectares of ungrafted vines and was an early convert to organic growing. The wine to know is Kavalieros, a single-vineyard Assyrtiko from Imerovigli at about 250 metres, often cited as Santorini's first single-vineyard bottling. Santorini Barrel, the oak-aged Assyrtiko, is a richer, toastier take and a major award winner. Sigalas also helped revive the red Mavrotragano with Hatzidakis and makes a Vinsanto. Start with the estate Santorini, then taste Kavalieros to see what site adds.

Argyros Vinsanto: First Release, Late Release and decades-old Heritage bottlings.

Estate Argyros releases a current Vinsanto next to library vintages roughly twenty years older; its Vinsanto stands out for intensity and freshness.

If you want to understand how Vinsanto ages, Argyros is the address. The estate, one of Santorini's very top names, built a dedicated Vinsanto programme under Yiannis Argyros in the 1970s and 1980s and keeps deep stocks. Each year it releases a current bottling ('First Release') alongside a 'Late Release' around twenty years older, and occasionally very old 'Heritage' vintages. Tasting a young and an old release side by side shows the arc from dried apricot and red fruit to coffee, figs and caramel. Argyros Vinsanto is intense and fresh, with red-fruit notes - one of the island's best. Sigalas, Santo, Karamolegos and Koutsoyiannopoulos also make well-regarded versions, so a Vinsanto flight across producers is one of the best tastings on the island.

Mikra Thira: new winery on Thirasia; Terrasea shows the islet's Assyrtiko.

A young project on Thirasia, the islet across the caldera, from oenologist Ioanna Vamvakouri with Vangelis Gerovassiliou and Vassilis Tsaktsarlis. Terrasea is all Thirasia Assyrtiko.

Thirasia, a few minutes by boat from Ammoudi below Oia, is part of the Santorini PDO but was long overshadowed by the main island. Mikra Thira is the new name to know there. Oenologist Ioanna Vamvakouri assembled terraced plots on the islet by 2017 and teamed up with two of Greece's best-known winemakers, Vangelis Gerovassiliou and Vassilis Tsaktsarlis; the winery on Thirasia is recent, with about 17 hectares of west-facing vines and an organic, sustainable aim. Terrasea is 100% Thirasia Assyrtiko, mostly fermented in steel with a portion in oak; the team describes Thirasia fruit as less aromatic than Santorini's and slower to open, but built to last longer. The range also includes a Nychteri and a Santorini made from main-island grapes. Because it is new, treat it as a discovery and taste before buying in quantity.

Hatzidakis: cave winery in Pyrgos; Louros and Cuvée No. 15 are the icons.

A small organic, wild-yeast estate and one of Santorini's top names. Founder Haridimos Hatzidakis died in 2017; his daughter Stella now runs it with the family.

Hatzidakis is the island's cult grower. Haridimos Hatzidakis, a former Boutari winemaker, started with half a hectare of Aidani in 1996 and built a cellar in a cave on the edge of Pyrgos. It ranks among Santorini's top producers. After his death in 2017 the family chose not to sell; his eldest daughter Stella has led it since, with a team of young island winemakers. The vineyards are certified organic, ungrafted and basket-trained, and fermentations use native yeasts. Cuvée No. 15 is the floral, nutty all-Assyrtiko reference; Louros is a single-vineyard wine from century-old vines at Pyrgos, oak-fermented and aged two years on its lees in tiny quantities; Skitali and its barrel version add other angles. Hatzidakis also made the island's first varietal Mavrotragano in 1997.

Volcanic pumice and ash soils give a stony, salty bite.

Santorini's soil (aspa) is volcanic ash, pumice, basalt and sand with almost no clay. It drains fast and holds little water, so vines struggle and give small, concentrated crops with fierce acidity.

Santorini's soil (aspa) is volcanic ash, pumice, basalt and sand with almost no clay. It drains fast and holds little water, so vines struggle and give small, concentrated crops with fierce acidity.

In the glass: Concentration, high acidity and a mineral, saline finish

Vines woven into low baskets survive wind, sun and drought.

Growers coil the vines into ground-level baskets (kouloura). The grapes ripen inside, shaded from the sun and sheltered from strong summer winds, and the basket traps night-time sea moisture on an island with almost no rain.

Growers coil the vines into ground-level baskets (kouloura). The grapes ripen inside, shaded from the sun and sheltered from strong summer winds, and the basket traps night-time sea moisture on an island with almost no rain.

In the glass: Grapes ripen without scorching, keeping acidity and freshness in a hot climate

Tiny, dry-farmed yields mean concentration - and high prices.

Old, dry-farmed vines give tiny crops, often a fraction of what mainland vineyards yield. Combined with land pressure from tourism, this is why Santorini wine costs more than other Greek whites.

Old, dry-farmed vines give tiny crops, often a fraction of what mainland vineyards yield. Combined with land pressure from tourism, this is why Santorini wine costs more than other Greek whites.

In the glass: Dense, powerful whites with more body than their acidity suggests

Phylloxera never took hold: ungrafted rootstocks centuries old.

Santorini's sandy volcanic soils keep out phylloxera, so vines grow on their own roots. Old root systems are kept while the baskets above are periodically renewed, giving some of Europe's oldest living vineyards.

Most of the world's vineyards were grafted onto American rootstock after phylloxera, the root louse, destroyed Europe's vines in the 19th century. Santorini escaped: its low-clay, pumice-rich soils are hostile to the insect, so PDO vines grow on their own roots. That changes how the vineyard ages. When the trunk and basket above ground become tired, growers cut them back and train a new basket from the same root system, so the roots can be far older than the visible vine. Average vine age is often quoted above 70 years, and producers such as Estate Argyros describe some plants as centuries old. Deep, established roots help the vine survive with almost no rain and push yields down further. When a producer labels an old-vine or single-vineyard cuvée, this living history is what the extra price is paying for: more concentration and a firmer, longer finish.

In the glass: Concentration and length; old-vine cuvées show more depth and grip

Most Santorini is fermented in steel to keep it crisp and salty.

The classic style is unoaked: cool fermentation in stainless steel, bottled young. That keeps the lemon, flint and salty edge at the front.

The classic style is unoaked: cool fermentation in stainless steel, bottled young. That keeps the lemon, flint and salty edge at the front.

In the glass: Fresh citrus, high acidity, saline finish

Oak for Nykteri, Reserve and 'Barrel' wines - rounder and toastier.

Fermenting or ageing in oak gives a creamy texture and toast; Nykteri, Reserve and Grande Reserve all see oak, Grande Reserve the longest. Assyrtiko's acidity carries the oak well.

Fermenting or ageing in oak gives a creamy texture and toast; Nykteri, Reserve and Grande Reserve all see oak, Grande Reserve the longest. Assyrtiko's acidity carries the oak well.

In the glass: Creamier, fuller, with vanilla and toast over the citrus

Vinsanto grapes dry in the sun for about one to two weeks.

Late-picked grapes are spread out in the sun, losing much of their water; the very sweet must ferments slowly and the wine then ages oxidatively in old oak for years.

Late-picked grapes are spread out in the sun, losing much of their water; the very sweet must ferments slowly and the wine then ages oxidatively in old oak for years.

In the glass: Raisin, dried apricot and caramel; amber to brown colour; fresh acidity under the sweetness

Old wineries were cellars dug into soft volcanic rock (kanaves).

Traditional Santorini cellars were domed caves carved into volcanic tephra, cool and humid all year. Few still work, but some survive as winery museums or tasting rooms.

Traditional Santorini cellars were domed caves carved into volcanic tephra, cool and humid all year. Few still work, but some survive as winery museums or tasting rooms.

In the glass: Historically: cool, steady fermentation and storage; today mostly heritage

Wild-yeast, organic and lees-aged wines - the island's low-intervention edge.

Some producers ferment with native yeasts and age on the lees (Hatzidakis, Gaia's Wild Ferment Assyrtiko). Expect more texture, nutty notes and individuality.

Some producers ferment with native yeasts and age on the lees (Hatzidakis, Gaia's Wild Ferment Assyrtiko). Expect more texture, nutty notes and individuality.

In the glass: Rounder texture, savoury and nutty complexity

Staple: a classic unoaked Santorini from the co-op or Gaia.

Santo Wines' Assyrtiko or Gaia's Thalassitis gives the true island taste at the fairest price - Santorini is never cheap, but these are its best value.

Santo Wines' Assyrtiko or Gaia's Thalassitis gives the true island taste at the fairest price - Santorini is never cheap, but these are its best value.

Celebration: a single-vineyard or old-vine cuvée from a top estate.

Sigalas Kavalieros, Hatzidakis Cuvée No. 15 or an Argyros named cuvée - small production, hard to find abroad, and they age.

Sigalas Kavalieros, Hatzidakis Cuvée No. 15 or an Argyros named cuvée - small production, hard to find abroad, and they age.

Gift: a Vinsanto - ideally an 8- or 12-year-old.

Unique to the island, long-lived and a great after-dinner bottle; older age statements are the more interesting buy.

Unique to the island, long-lived and a great after-dinner bottle; older age statements are the more interesting buy.

Island special: a Nykteri, rarely seen abroad.

The oak-aged traditional style makes a good contrast with a regular Santorini at home.

The oak-aged traditional style makes a good contrast with a regular Santorini at home.

The other colour: a Mavrotragano red.

A rare revived island red - few friends at home will have tasted one.

A rare revived island red - few friends at home will have tasted one.

Local find: Thirasia Assyrtiko from Mikra Thira.

A new project from the islet across the caldera - a talking-point bottle.

A new project from the islet across the caldera - a talking-point bottle.