Italy

Italian wines are named for places, not grapes - learn the place.

Most Italian labels lead with where the wine comes from (Chianti, Barolo, Soave), not the grape. Learn three or four place names for the region you're visiting and you can read most of the shelf.

Most Italian labels lead with where the wine comes from (Chianti, Barolo, Soave), not the grape. Learn three or four place names for the region you're visiting and you can read most of the shelf.

The producer matters more than the tier on the label.

A great family estate's simple Rosso often beats a mass-market DOCG from the same area. When in doubt, pick the house over the badge - and ask the shop which local producers they rate.

A great family estate's simple Rosso often beats a mass-market DOCG from the same area. When in doubt, pick the house over the badge - and ask the shop which local producers they rate.

Buy the 'little brother' wine from a top estate.

Famous estates make a younger, cheaper wine from the same grapes (Rosso di Montalcino next to Brunello, Langhe Nebbiolo next to Barolo). It's the best-value way to taste a top house.

Famous estates make a younger, cheaper wine from the same grapes (Rosso di Montalcino next to Brunello, Langhe Nebbiolo next to Barolo). It's the best-value way to taste a top house.

North-West: Piemonte's Nebbiolo, Barbera, fizz from Lombardy.

Foggy hills and Alpine foothills. Piemonte gives Barolo and Barbaresco (serious Nebbiolo), plus everyday Barbera and Dolcetto; Lombardy adds Franciacorta sparkling and mountain Nebbiolo from Valtellina.

Foggy hills and Alpine foothills. Piemonte gives Barolo and Barbaresco (serious Nebbiolo), plus everyday Barbera and Dolcetto; Lombardy adds Franciacorta sparkling and mountain Nebbiolo from Valtellina.

Piemonte · Lombardy · Valle d'Aosta · Liguria

Style: Structured reds, crisp whites, traditional-method sparkling

Look for: Barolo, Barbaresco, Barbera d'Asti, Gavi, Franciacorta, Moscato d'Asti

Langhe & Roero guide

North-East: Alpine whites, Prosecco, Amarone, orange wine.

From the Dolomites to the Adriatic: fresh Alpine whites and co-op value in Alto Adige, Prosecco and Soave in Veneto, Amarone around Verona, and Friuli's skin-contact pioneers. Emilia-Romagna next door adds fizzy red Lambrusco.

From the Dolomites to the Adriatic: fresh Alpine whites and co-op value in Alto Adige, Prosecco and Soave in Veneto, Amarone around Verona, and Friuli's skin-contact pioneers. Emilia-Romagna next door adds fizzy red Lambrusco.

Trentino-Alto Adige · Veneto · Friuli-Venezia Giulia · Emilia-Romagna

Style: Fresh whites, sparkling, dried-grape reds, orange wine

Look for: Prosecco Superiore, Soave Classico, Valpolicella / Amarone, Alto Adige whites, Collio whites, Lambrusco

Alto Adige guideValpolicella & Soave (Verona) guideConegliano-Valdobbiadene guideCollio and Goriška Brda guide

Tuscany: Sangiovese in every shade, plus coastal Super Tuscans.

Sangiovese rules the hills: Chianti Classico between Florence and Siena, Brunello and Vino Nobile further south. On the coast, Bolgheri makes Bordeaux-style blends.

Sangiovese rules the hills: Chianti Classico between Florence and Siena, Brunello and Vino Nobile further south. On the coast, Bolgheri makes Bordeaux-style blends.

Tuscany

Style: Savoury, high-acid reds; coastal Bordeaux blends

Look for: Chianti Classico, Brunello di Montalcino, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, Bolgheri, Vernaccia di San Gimignano

Chianti Classico guideMontalcino guideMontepulciano (Vino Nobile) guideBolgheri guide

Central hills: Umbria, Marche, Abruzzo - big value, fewer crowds.

Tuscany's neighbours: Umbria's tannic Sagrantino and Orvieto whites, Marche's age-worthy Verdicchio, Abruzzo's generous Montepulciano and deep rosé. Prices are friendlier than across the border.

Tuscany's neighbours: Umbria's tannic Sagrantino and Orvieto whites, Marche's age-worthy Verdicchio, Abruzzo's generous Montepulciano and deep rosé. Prices are friendlier than across the border.

Umbria · Marche · Abruzzo · Lazio

Style: Value reds and whites, local grapes

Look for: Montefalco Sagrantino, Orvieto, Verdicchio, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo

Umbria guide

South: volcanic Aglianico, great whites, warm and ripe Puglia.

Campania makes the south's most serious wines - tannic Taurasi and the textured whites Fiano and Greco. Puglia's Primitivo and Negroamaro are ripe and easy; Basilicata adds volcanic Aglianico.

Campania makes the south's most serious wines - tannic Taurasi and the textured whites Fiano and Greco. Puglia's Primitivo and Negroamaro are ripe and easy; Basilicata adds volcanic Aglianico.

Campania · Puglia · Basilicata · Calabria

Style: Ripe reds, mineral whites, strong value

Look for: Taurasi, Fiano di Avellino, Greco di Tufo, Aglianico del Vulture, Primitivo di Manduria, Salice Salentino

Irpinia & Campania guide

Islands: Etna's mountain reds, Sicilian value, Sardinian Vermentino.

Sicily runs from plummy Nero d'Avola to the high, volcanic slopes of Etna, now one of Italy's most exciting areas. Sardinia gives saline Vermentino and robust Cannonau.

Sicily runs from plummy Nero d'Avola to the high, volcanic slopes of Etna, now one of Italy's most exciting areas. Sardinia gives saline Vermentino and robust Cannonau.

Sicily · Sardinia

Style: From warm and plummy to fresh volcanic

Look for: Etna Rosso / Bianco, Nero d'Avola, Cerasuolo di Vittoria, Marsala, Vermentino di Gallura, Cannonau

Etna guide

Find the place name first, then the producer, then the tier.

The biggest words are usually the appellation. Next look for the producer's name, then DOCG/DOC/IGT and words like Classico or Riserva. Grape names appear mostly on IGT and northern wines.

The biggest words are usually the appellation. Next look for the producer's name, then DOCG/DOC/IGT and words like Classico or Riserva. Grape names appear mostly on IGT and northern wines.

Tip: Order of reading: place, producer, tier, extra words

Montepulciano is two things: a grape (Abruzzo) and a town (Tuscany).

Montepulciano d'Abruzzo is a grape-named red from Abruzzo. Vino Nobile di Montepulciano is a Sangiovese from the Tuscan town. Different wines, different regions.

Montepulciano d'Abruzzo is a grape-named red from Abruzzo. Vino Nobile di Montepulciano is a Sangiovese from the Tuscan town. Different wines, different regions.

Tip: Grape + 'd'/di' + place usually names grape and region (Barbera d'Asti); a place alone names an appellation

The neck strip: required for DOCG, optional for DOC and IGT.

Every DOCG bottle carries a numbered state strip for traceability. Some DOC and IGT consortia have adopted it too, Sicilia DOC among them - so a strip proves origin, not top quality.

Every DOCG bottle carries a numbered state strip for traceability. Some DOC and IGT consortia have adopted it too, Sicilia DOC among them - so a strip proves origin, not top quality.

Tip: A strip proves origin and traceability - not quality

A famous wine in a cheap price band is usually a weak one.

Big names like Chianti, Prosecco or Amarone exist at every level. Very low prices for a flagship usually mean a bulk producer; the region guide lists names worth seeking.

Big names like Chianti, Prosecco or Amarone exist at every level. Very low prices for a flagship usually mean a bulk producer; the region guide lists names worth seeking.

Tip: Price far below the norm for its category = treat with suspicion

DOCG: Italy's top legal tier - look for the numbered neck strip.

The strictest category, with tight rules on grapes, yields and aging and a tasting check. It tells you the wine is typical of its place - not that it's great.

The strictest category, with tight rules on grapes, yields and aging and a tasting check. It tells you the wine is typical of its place - not that it's great.

Controlled and guaranteed origin: the strictest rules

Spot it: 'DOCG' on the label and a numbered state strip over the cork

DOC: defined area and rules - the bulk of Italy's quality wine.

The broad middle of Italian quality wine, each appellation with a set area, grapes and standards. Quality ranges widely, from simple to superb, so the producer is your real guide.

The broad middle of Italian quality wine, each appellation with a set area, grapes and standards. Quality ranges widely, from simple to superb, so the producer is your real guide.

Controlled origin: defined area, grapes and methods

Spot it: 'DOC' after the place name

IGT: regional wines - from cheap varietals to famous Super Tuscans.

A broad regional tier with looser rules. It covers simple supermarket wine and also icons made outside DOC rules, such as Toscana IGT blends. Price and producer tell you which one you're holding.

A broad regional tier with looser rules. It covers simple supermarket wine and also icons made outside DOC rules, such as Toscana IGT blends. Price and producer tell you which one you're holding.

Typical geographic indication: region-wide, flexible rules

Spot it: 'IGT' or 'IGP' with a broad region name, e.g. Toscana, Terre Siciliane

Vino: no place named - everyday table wine.

The base tier. No appellation is named; some bottles show a grape and vintage. Fine for cooking or a picnic, rarely worth carrying home.

The base tier. No appellation is named; some bottles show a grape and vintage. Fine for cooking or a picnic, rarely worth carrying home.

Wine without a geographic indication

Spot it: No DOCG/DOC/IGT on the label

EU labels say DOP and IGP; Italian labels keep DOCG, DOC, IGT.

Under EU law DOCG and DOC are both 'DOP' (protected origin) and IGT is 'IGP'. Producers may print either form, so DOP on a label can mean DOC or DOCG.

Italy's ladder sits inside the EU system. Both DOCG and DOC count as DOP (Denominazione di Origine Protetta) and IGT counts as IGP (Indicazione Geografica Protetta). Labels may use the traditional Italian term, the EU term, or both, so a bottle marked DOP could be a modest DOC or a top DOCG - read the place name to know which. One quirk worth knowing: Piemonte has no IGT at all - every wine there is DOC or DOCG - so a humble regional Piemonte wine still carries a DOC. The tier tells you about rules and origin; it doesn't rank producers, and many of Italy's most expensive bottles have sat in IGT by choice.

EU names for the same tiers

Spot it: 'DOP' or 'IGP' instead of, or next to, the Italian term

Classico = the original heartland of the appellation.

The historic core zone before the boundaries were widened - usually hillier and better. Chianti Classico, Soave Classico and Valpolicella Classico are good examples.

The historic core zone before the boundaries were widened - usually hillier and better. Chianti Classico, Soave Classico and Valpolicella Classico are good examples.

Historic core zone of a wider appellation

Watch out: Not a quality grade on its own; a good non-Classico producer can beat a weak Classico

Riserva = aged longer before release; usually fuller and pricier.

Held back longer in cask and bottle before release; each appellation sets its own aging. Expect more depth and oak influence - and a higher price.

Held back longer in cask and bottle before release; each appellation sets its own aging. Expect more depth and oak influence - and a higher price.

Longer aging than the standard wine

Watch out: Longer aging suits robust grapes; in light styles Riserva can taste tired

Superiore = a bit riper and stricter than the standard wine.

Usually from lower yields and slightly riper grapes than the plain version. A small step up, not a separate style.

Usually from lower yields and slightly riper grapes than the plain version. A small step up, not a separate style.

Lower yields, slightly riper grapes

Watch out: A modest difference; the producer matters more

Village and vineyard names on the label signal the top wines.

Several appellations now let producers name an official sub-zone or vineyard - MGA in Barolo and Barbaresco, UGA villages for Chianti Classico Gran Selezione. A named site usually means the producer's best wine.

Italy has been mapping its best appellations the way Burgundy maps villages and crus. In Barolo and Barbaresco, officially registered vineyard names (MGA, 'additional geographic mentions') such as Cannubi or Asili appear on the label and mark a producer's top cuvée. In Chianti Classico, Gran Selezione wines - the appellation's top tier - may name one of the official village units (UGA) such as Castellina, Gaiole, Greve, Panzano or Radda. The word 'Vigna' with a name marks a single vineyard more generally. For the traveler: a named site is the producer's flagship, so taste it at the winery and buy the entry wine for everyday drinking.

Official sub-zone or single-vineyard name

Watch out: Rules differ by appellation; check the region guide

'Rosso di...' is the younger sibling of a famous wine.

Rosso di Montalcino, Rosso di Montepulciano and Rosso di Montefalco come from the same places and often the same producers as the flagship, released younger and cheaper - ideal for weeknights.

Rosso di Montalcino, Rosso di Montepulciano and Rosso di Montefalco come from the same places and often the same producers as the flagship, released younger and cheaper - ideal for weeknights.

Younger, lighter wine from a flagship's zone

Watch out: Same grape, less aging and concentration - judge it as its own wine

Passito / appassimento = made from dried grapes: rich and strong.

Grapes are dried for weeks or months before fermenting, concentrating sugar and flavour. Results range from dry and powerful (Amarone) to sweet (Recioto, Vin Santo, Passito di Pantelleria).

Grapes are dried for weeks or months before fermenting, concentrating sugar and flavour. Results range from dry and powerful (Amarone) to sweet (Recioto, Vin Santo, Passito di Pantelleria).

Wine made from dried grapes

Watch out: High alcohol and heavy body - a wine for slow food or dessert, not a lunch red

Spumante sparkles, frizzante fizzes lightly; Metodo Classico is Champagne-style.

Spumante means fully sparkling and frizzante gently sparkling. Metodo Classico means the bubbles were made in the bottle, as in Champagne (Franciacorta, Trento, Alta Langa); most Prosecco is made in tanks.

Spumante means fully sparkling and frizzante gently sparkling. Metodo Classico means the bubbles were made in the bottle, as in Champagne (Franciacorta, Trento, Alta Langa); most Prosecco is made in tanks.

Sparkling level and production method

Watch out: Metodo Classico costs more to make - it's the local answer to Champagne

On bubbly, Extra Dry is sweeter than Brut.

Sparkling sweetness terms run Brut Nature/Extra Brut (driest), Brut, Extra Dry, Dry, then sweeter. A lot of Prosecco is Extra Dry - soft and slightly sweet. Choose Brut for drier.

Sparkling sweetness terms run Brut Nature/Extra Brut (driest), Brut, Extra Dry, Dry, then sweeter. A lot of Prosecco is Extra Dry - soft and slightly sweet. Choose Brut for drier.

Sweetness levels for sparkling wine

Watch out: The names are counter-intuitive - 'Dry' is noticeably sweet

Secco is dry; amabile and abboccato off-dry; dolce sweet.

Still wines may state their sweetness: secco (dry), abboccato (lightly sweet), amabile (off-dry to medium-sweet), dolce (sweet). Most table wine is dry unless the label says otherwise.

Still wines may state their sweetness: secco (dry), abboccato (lightly sweet), amabile (off-dry to medium-sweet), dolce (sweet). Most table wine is dry unless the label says otherwise.

Sweetness of still wine

Watch out: Seen on Orvieto, Lambrusco and Malvasia - check before buying for dinner

'Imbottigliato all'origine' means grown and bottled by the estate.

Estate-bottled: the same farm grew the grapes and bottled the wine. 'Azienda agricola' signals a grower estate. A plain 'imbottigliato da' only names who bottled it.

Estate-bottled: the same farm grew the grapes and bottled the wine. 'Azienda agricola' signals a grower estate. A plain 'imbottigliato da' only names who bottled it.

Estate-grown and estate-bottled

Watch out: Not a quality guarantee, but a useful sign of a grower rather than a bulk bottler

Cantina sociale or 'Produttori' = co-operative winery - often great value.

Many growers pool grapes in a co-op. In Alto Adige, Trentino, Abruzzo and Piemonte some co-ops make excellent, fairly priced wine; others are bulk producers.

Many growers pool grapes in a co-op. In Alto Adige, Trentino, Abruzzo and Piemonte some co-ops make excellent, fairly priced wine; others are bulk producers.

Co-operative winery

Watch out: Quality varies by co-op - the region guide names the good ones

Rosato is rosé; Cerasuolo is deeper and fuller.

Rosato is pink wine. In Abruzzo, Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo is a deeply coloured, cherry-scented rosé with more body - a great summer food wine. (Cerasuolo di Vittoria in Sicily is a red.)

Rosato is pink wine. In Abruzzo, Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo is a deeply coloured, cherry-scented rosé with more body - a great summer food wine. (Cerasuolo di Vittoria in Sicily is a red.)

Rosé styles

Watch out: Cerasuolo di Vittoria is a light red, not a rosé

Traditional or modern? The cellar choice shapes the taste more than the label.

Within one appellation, producers split between large old casks (traditional: savoury, transparent, slower to open) and small new barrels (modern: darker, sweeter oak spice, rounder early). The label rarely says which - the winery visit does.

Italy's flagship reds went through a long argument in the 1990s and 2000s between 'traditionalists' and 'modernists', most famously in Barolo but also in Brunello and Chianti Classico. Traditionalists ferment and soak the skins longer and age in large old casks (botti) that add little wood flavour, so the wine shows red fruit, herbs and earth and needs time to soften. Modernists use shorter macerations, small French barrels with some new oak, and often riper fruit, so the wine is darker, rounder and spicier young. Many producers now sit in between. None of this appears on the label, and rules allow both, so ask at the winery: 'botte grande o barrique?' The answer tells you whether the wine fits your taste better than any tier or score.

House style: large old casks vs small new barrels

Watch out: Not a quality split - pick by taste

Sangiovese: cherry, herbs, high acidity - Tuscany's soul.

Italy's most planted red. Sour cherry, dried herbs and tea, with lively acidity that loves tomato and olive oil. Light in Chianti, deep and long-lived in Brunello.

Italy's most planted red. Sour cherry, dried herbs and tea, with lively acidity that loves tomato and olive oil. Light in Chianti, deep and long-lived in Brunello.

red

Tastes like: Sour cherry, dried herbs, tea, bright acidity

Where it shines: Chianti Classico, Brunello di Montalcino, Vino Nobile, Montefalco Rosso, Romagna

Order: Chianti Classico Riserva from a good estate with grilled meat

Nebbiolo: pale but powerful - roses, tar, firm tannin.

Looks light, tastes big: rose, cherry, tar and grippy tannin with high acidity. Needs food and time. Barolo and Barbaresco are the peaks; Langhe Nebbiolo is the easy entry.

Looks light, tastes big: rose, cherry, tar and grippy tannin with high acidity. Needs food and time. Barolo and Barbaresco are the peaks; Langhe Nebbiolo is the easy entry.

red

Tastes like: Rose, red cherry, tar, strong tannin and acid

Where it shines: Barolo, Barbaresco, Roero, Alto Piemonte, Valtellina

Order: Langhe Nebbiolo with truffle pasta; Barolo for a celebration

Barbera: juicy, high acid, soft tannin - Piemonte's everyday red.

Black cherry and plum with mouth-watering acidity and gentle tannin. Unoaked versions are pure and fresh; barrel-aged ones richer and spicier.

Black cherry and plum with mouth-watering acidity and gentle tannin. Unoaked versions are pure and fresh; barrel-aged ones richer and spicier.

red

Tastes like: Black cherry, plum, high acid, soft tannin

Where it shines: Barbera d'Asti, Nizza, Barbera d'Alba

Order: Barbera d'Asti with salumi or pizza

Montepulciano: deep, plummy, generous - Abruzzo's great value red.

Dark plum and cherry with soft-to-firm tannin. Simple versions are cheap and cheerful; low-yield bottlings are dense and age-worthy. Also makes the deep rosé Cerasuolo.

Dark plum and cherry with soft-to-firm tannin. Simple versions are cheap and cheerful; low-yield bottlings are dense and age-worthy. Also makes the deep rosé Cerasuolo.

red

Tastes like: Plum, black cherry, ripe and round

Where it shines: Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, Colline Teramane, Conero (Marche)

Order: A good-producer Montepulciano d'Abruzzo with lamb skewers

Aglianico: the south's Nebbiolo - dark, tannic, volcanic.

Black fruit, smoke and firm tannin with high acidity; it ages for decades. Taurasi in Campania and Aglianico del Vulture in Basilicata are the reference wines.

Black fruit, smoke and firm tannin with high acidity; it ages for decades. Taurasi in Campania and Aglianico del Vulture in Basilicata are the reference wines.

red

Tastes like: Blackberry, smoke, leather, firm tannin

Where it shines: Taurasi, Aglianico del Vulture, Aglianico del Taburno

Order: Taurasi with braised meat

Nero d'Avola: plummy, smooth Sicilian red - from simple to serious.

Ripe plum and dark cherry, medium tannin. High-yield bottles are basic; lower-yield ones from good estates are rich and polished. Blended with Frappato in Cerasuolo di Vittoria.

Ripe plum and dark cherry, medium tannin. High-yield bottles are basic; lower-yield ones from good estates are rich and polished. Blended with Frappato in Cerasuolo di Vittoria.

red

Tastes like: Plum, dark cherry, soft spice

Where it shines: Sicilia DOC, Noto, Cerasuolo di Vittoria

Order: Cerasuolo di Vittoria, slightly chilled, with tuna or caponata

Primitivo: ripe, jammy, warm - Puglia's crowd-pleaser.

Blackberry jam, spice and high alcohol with soft tannin. Genetically the same as Zinfandel. Best from Manduria; avoid the very sweet-tasting bargain versions.

Blackberry jam, spice and high alcohol with soft tannin. Genetically the same as Zinfandel. Best from Manduria; avoid the very sweet-tasting bargain versions.

red

Tastes like: Blackberry jam, spice, warm

Where it shines: Primitivo di Manduria, Gioia del Colle

Order: Primitivo di Manduria with barbecue

Corvina: Verona's cherry red - fresh in Valpolicella, mighty in Amarone.

Sour cherry and almond, light tannin. Fresh and light in Valpolicella, richer in Ripasso, and powerful when the grapes are dried for Amarone.

Sour cherry and almond, light tannin. Fresh and light in Valpolicella, richer in Ripasso, and powerful when the grapes are dried for Amarone.

red

Tastes like: Sour cherry, almond, light tannin

Where it shines: Valpolicella, Ripasso, Amarone, Bardolino

Order: Valpolicella Classico with pasta; Ripasso with roast meat

Nerello Mascalese: Etna's pale, fragrant volcanic red.

Red berries, herbs and smoky minerality with fine tannin and fresh acidity - often compared to Pinot Noir or Nebbiolo. The engine of Etna's revival.

Red berries, herbs and smoky minerality with fine tannin and fresh acidity - often compared to Pinot Noir or Nebbiolo. The engine of Etna's revival.

red

Tastes like: Red berries, herbs, smoke, fine tannin

Where it shines: Etna Rosso, Faro

Order: Etna Rosso with grilled fish or pasta alla Norma

Pinot Grigio: neutral and light - or textured from the northern hills.

Cheap plains versions are crisp and neutral. From Alto Adige or Friuli's hills it gains pear, spice and texture - a different wine at a similar name.

Cheap plains versions are crisp and neutral. From Alto Adige or Friuli's hills it gains pear, spice and texture - a different wine at a similar name.

white

Tastes like: Pear, lemon, light; richer from hills

Where it shines: Alto Adige, Collio, Friuli Colli Orientali

Order: An Alto Adige Pinot Grigio as an aperitivo

Glera: the Prosecco grape - pear, apple, flowers.

Light, fruity and aromatic; makes Prosecco in tanks to keep it fresh. Best from the steep Conegliano-Valdobbiadene hills.

Light, fruity and aromatic; makes Prosecco in tanks to keep it fresh. Best from the steep Conegliano-Valdobbiadene hills.

white

Tastes like: Pear, green apple, white flowers

Where it shines: Conegliano-Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG, Asolo

Order: Prosecco Superiore Brut with fried starters

Garganega: Soave's grape - almond, lemon, quietly age-worthy.

Lemon, almond and white flowers with good acidity. Hillside Soave Classico gains texture and ages well; plains Soave is simpler.

Lemon, almond and white flowers with good acidity. Hillside Soave Classico gains texture and ages well; plains Soave is simpler.

white

Tastes like: Lemon, almond, white flowers

Where it shines: Soave Classico, Recioto di Soave

Order: Soave Classico with risotto or seafood

Verdicchio: crisp, almondy, ages to honey - Marche's value star.

Green apple, citrus and almond with high acidity. The best gain honey and nutty depth with years - remarkable value.

Green apple, citrus and almond with high acidity. The best gain honey and nutty depth with years - remarkable value.

white

Tastes like: Green apple, citrus, almond

Where it shines: Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, Verdicchio di Matelica

Order: Verdicchio with fritto misto

Fiano and Greco: Campania's serious whites.

Fiano is fuller, with stone fruit and a waxy, honeyed edge that develops with age; Greco is leaner, zesty and mineral. Both rank among Italy's best whites.

Fiano is fuller, with stone fruit and a waxy, honeyed edge that develops with age; Greco is leaner, zesty and mineral. Both rank among Italy's best whites.

white

Tastes like: Fiano: peach, wax, honey; Greco: green apple, citrus, mineral

Where it shines: Fiano di Avellino, Greco di Tufo

Order: Fiano di Avellino with buffalo mozzarella or seafood pasta

Vermentino: saline, herbal coastal white.

Citrus, herbs and a salty, sea-breeze finish. Made along the Tyrrhenian coast and at its best in Sardinia's Gallura.

Citrus, herbs and a salty, sea-breeze finish. Made along the Tyrrhenian coast and at its best in Sardinia's Gallura.

white

Tastes like: Citrus, herbs, saline

Where it shines: Vermentino di Gallura, Bolgheri, Liguria

Order: Vermentino di Gallura with grilled fish

In a trattoria, the house wine is fine - and very local.

Vino della casa is often a local wine served by the quarter, half or litre carafe. It's an honest everyday choice in casual places; in a serious restaurant, pick from the list.

Vino della casa is often a local wine served by the quarter, half or litre carafe. It's an honest everyday choice in casual places; in a serious restaurant, pick from the list.

Tip: Ask: 'Che vino della casa avete?'

Order the region's own wine - lists are built around it.

Most Italian wine lists are strongly regional, and local bottles carry the fairest markups. Drinking local also matches the food it grew up with.

Most Italian wine lists are strongly regional, and local bottles carry the fairest markups. Drinking local also matches the food it grew up with.

Tip: Ask for 'un vino della zona' and a producer the staff like

Al calice means by the glass.

Many wine bars and enoteche pour several local wines by the glass - the cheapest way to taste a region's range in one evening.

Many wine bars and enoteche pour several local wines by the glass - the cheapest way to taste a region's range in one evening.

Tip: 'Un calice di...' = a glass of...

Acidic Italian reds are built for food, not for sipping alone.

Sangiovese, Barbera and Nebbiolo have high acidity that cuts tomato, olive oil and cheese. Taste them with dinner, not as an aperitif.

Sangiovese, Barbera and Nebbiolo have high acidity that cuts tomato, olive oil and cheese. Taste them with dinner, not as an aperitif.

Tip: Order whites or bubbles as aperitivo, reds with the meal

Finish with a sweet local wine - Vin Santo, Passito, Moscato.

Many regions make a dessert wine; ask for the local one. Vin Santo with cantucci biscuits is the Tuscan ritual; Moscato d'Asti is light and low in alcohol.

Many regions make a dessert wine; ask for the local one. Vin Santo with cantucci biscuits is the Tuscan ritual; Moscato d'Asti is light and low in alcohol.

Tip: Ask: 'Avete un vino dolce della zona?'

Enoteca: a wine shop with advice - the best place to buy.

Specialist shops stock the best local producers and the staff usually know them personally. Tell them your budget and what you like.

Specialist shops stock the best local producers and the staff usually know them personally. Tell them your budget and what you like.

Tip: Ask which local producers they'd drink themselves

At the cellar door, buy what you can't find at home.

Winery prices are similar to good shops, but you can find older vintages, single-vineyard wines and small cuvées that never get exported.

Winery prices are similar to good shops, but you can find older vintages, single-vineyard wines and small cuvées that never get exported.

Tip: Ask if they have older vintages for sale

Supermarkets carry fair-priced regional ranges.

Big supermarkets stock a solid range of their region's wines at fair prices. Look for named producers and Classico or hillside cues, and skip the cheapest bottles of famous names.

Big supermarkets stock a solid range of their region's wines at fair prices. Look for named producers and Classico or hillside cues, and skip the cheapest bottles of famous names.

Tip: Best for everyday staples, less so for rarities

Co-op shops sell bottles and fill your own container (sfuso).

Cantine sociali often have a shop with bottled wine and sometimes wine on tap by the litre - a local, very cheap experience, best drunk during the trip.

Cantine sociali often have a shop with bottled wine and sometimes wine on tap by the litre - a local, very cheap experience, best drunk during the trip.

Tip: Sfuso is for drinking soon, not carrying home

Book winery visits ahead - especially small family estates.

Most wineries receive visitors by appointment. Book a few days ahead (weeks for famous names in high season), and expect many to be closed on Sundays and around mid-August.

Most wineries receive visitors by appointment. Book a few days ahead (weeks for famous names in high season), and expect many to be closed on Sundays and around mid-August.

Tip: Email or book online; confirm the day before

Plan around the long lunch break.

Many wineries and village shops pause for lunch in the early afternoon. Schedule one visit in the morning and one late afternoon, with lunch in between.

Many wineries and village shops pause for lunch in the early afternoon. Schedule one visit in the morning and one late afternoon, with lunch in between.

Tip: Morning visit, lunch, late-afternoon visit

Driving: limit 0.5 g/L; zero for new drivers - spit or use a driver.

The general blood-alcohol limit is 0.5 g/L, and zero for drivers under 21 or with under three years' licence. Spitting at tastings is normal and expected.

The general blood-alcohol limit is 0.5 g/L, and zero for drivers under 21 or with under three years' licence. Spitting at tastings is normal and expected.

Tip: Designate a driver or book a driver/guide for tasting days

Carrying wine home: pack it well or ask about shipping.

Bottles travel well in checked luggage, wrapped in wine sleeves or clothes. Buy what you can carry, or ask the winery whether it ships - small estates often can't, larger ones sometimes do.

Bottles travel well in checked luggage, wrapped in wine sleeves or clothes. Buy what you can carry, or ask the winery whether it ships - small estates often can't, larger ones sometimes do.

Tip: Pack bottles in checked luggage with wine sleeves

Check before you go — details here may have changed.

Harvest season is beautiful but busy.

From late August to October wineries are harvesting; some limit visits, others offer harvest experiences. Book earlier and expect shorter visits at small estates.

From late August to October wineries are harvesting; some limit visits, others offer harvest experiences. Book earlier and expect shorter visits at small estates.

Tip: Ask about harvest activities when booking