Germany

Check the alcohol: under about 10% almost always means noticeably sweet.

Words like Kabinett or Spätlese describe how ripe the grapes were, not how sweet the wine is. The quickest clue is the alcohol figure: sweet styles usually sit around 8-9%, dry ones well above 10%. 'Trocken' on the label settles it.

Words like Kabinett or Spätlese describe how ripe the grapes were, not how sweet the wine is. The quickest clue is the alcohol figure: sweet styles usually sit around 8-9%, dry ones well above 10%. 'Trocken' on the label settles it.

Look for the eagle on the capsule - then buy the village wine.

The VDP eagle marks a member of Germany's top growers' association. Their estate and village wines (Gutswein, Ortswein) come from the same hands as the famous single-vineyard bottles and are the best-value way into a great house.

The VDP eagle marks a member of Germany's top growers' association. Their estate and village wines (Gutswein, Ortswein) come from the same hands as the famous single-vineyard bottles and are the best-value way into a great house.

Kabinett is the perfect lunch wine: light, fresh, low in alcohol.

A classic sweet-leaning Riesling Kabinett has the zip of lemon and green apple, a touch of sweetness and only 8-9% alcohol, so you can enjoy a glass at noon and still taste wine in the afternoon. It's also great value.

A classic sweet-leaning Riesling Kabinett has the zip of lemon and green apple, a touch of sweetness and only 8-9% alcohol, so you can enjoy a glass at noon and still taste wine in the afternoon. It's also great value.

Mosel: featherweight Riesling from steep slate slopes.

The Mosel and its side valleys, the Saar and Ruwer, wind through some of Europe's steepest vineyards. The Rieslings are light, racy and often lightly sweet, with very high acidity - Germany's signature style and among its priciest to farm.

The Mosel and its side valleys, the Saar and Ruwer, wind through some of Europe's steepest vineyards. The Rieslings are light, racy and often lightly sweet, with very high acidity - Germany's signature style and among its priciest to farm.

Mosel

Style: Light, high-acid Riesling, dry to sweet

Look for: Riesling Kabinett, Riesling Spätlese, Riesling Auslese, Saar Riesling

Mosel guide

Rheingau and Mittelrhein: classic, mostly dry Riesling on the Rhine.

Where the Rhine turns west, the Rheingau's south-facing slopes give fuller, mostly dry Riesling with ripe peach notes, plus Pinot Noir around Assmannshausen. Downstream, the small Mittelrhein gorge makes crisp Riesling among castles.

Where the Rhine turns west, the Rheingau's south-facing slopes give fuller, mostly dry Riesling with ripe peach notes, plus Pinot Noir around Assmannshausen. Downstream, the small Mittelrhein gorge makes crisp Riesling among castles.

Rheingau · Mittelrhein

Style: Dry, medium-bodied Riesling; some Spätburgunder

Look for: Rheingau Riesling trocken, Assmannshausen Spätburgunder, Mittelrhein Riesling

Rheinhessen and Nahe: the biggest region, young talent, great-value Riesling.

Rheinhessen is Germany's largest wine region - once the home of cheap Liebfraumilch, now full of ambitious young growers and full-bodied Riesling from the Rhine terraces. The neighbouring Nahe sits in style between the Mosel and the Rhine.

Rheinhessen is Germany's largest wine region - once the home of cheap Liebfraumilch, now full of ambitious young growers and full-bodied Riesling from the Rhine terraces. The neighbouring Nahe sits in style between the Mosel and the Rhine.

Rheinhessen · Nahe

Style: Dry Riesling, Silvaner, Pinots; strong value

Look for: Rheinhessen Riesling (Nierstein, Westhofen), Rheinhessen Silvaner, Nahe Riesling

Pfalz: warm, ripe and dry - Riesling and Pinot with generosity.

A sunny strip along the Haardt hills, the Pfalz is the driest-styled region, with ripe, full Riesling around Forst and Deidesheim, plus fine Pinots and lively wine-tavern culture.

A sunny strip along the Haardt hills, the Pfalz is the driest-styled region, with ripe, full Riesling around Forst and Deidesheim, plus fine Pinots and lively wine-tavern culture.

Pfalz

Style: Ripe, dry Riesling; Spätburgunder, Weissburgunder

Look for: Pfalz Riesling trocken, Spätburgunder, Weissburgunder

Baden and Bergstrasse: Germany's warm south - Pinot country.

Baden, stretching along the Black Forest to the Swiss border, is the warmest region and a stronghold of Spätburgunder and Grauburgunder, best on the volcanic Kaiserstuhl. Co-operatives make much of the wine. The tiny Hessische Bergstrasse lies to the north.

Baden, stretching along the Black Forest to the Swiss border, is the warmest region and a stronghold of Spätburgunder and Grauburgunder, best on the volcanic Kaiserstuhl. Co-operatives make much of the wine. The tiny Hessische Bergstrasse lies to the north.

Baden · Hessische Bergstrasse

Style: Fuller Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris/Blanc

Look for: Kaiserstuhl Spätburgunder, Grauburgunder, Weissburgunder

Württemberg: red-wine land around Stuttgart, drunk mostly at home.

About two-thirds of the vines are red: light Trollinger, peppery Lemberger and Schwarzriesling, alongside Riesling. Co-operatives dominate, and most of the wine is drunk locally in taverns and seasonal Besen.

About two-thirds of the vines are red: light Trollinger, peppery Lemberger and Schwarzriesling, alongside Riesling. Co-operatives dominate, and most of the wine is drunk locally in taverns and seasonal Besen.

Württemberg

Style: Light-to-medium local reds; Riesling

Look for: Trollinger, Lemberger, Schwarzriesling

Franken: earthy dry Silvaner in the flat round Bocksbeutel bottle.

Around Würzburg on the river Main, Franken's top slopes give dry, savoury, earthy Silvaner - the region's calling card - in the squat Bocksbeutel flask. Riesling and Müller-Thurgau grow here too.

Around Würzburg on the river Main, Franken's top slopes give dry, savoury, earthy Silvaner - the region's calling card - in the squat Bocksbeutel flask. Riesling and Müller-Thurgau grow here too.

Franken

Style: Dry, firm Silvaner; Riesling

Look for: Silvaner trocken, Würzburg Riesling

Small outliers: red Ahr, plus Saale-Unstrut and Sachsen in the east.

The Ahr is a tiny, steep valley known for red Spätburgunder on slate. Saale-Unstrut and Sachsen, the most northerly and easterly regions, are small and make dry whites mostly sold and drunk locally.

The Ahr is a tiny, steep valley known for red Spätburgunder on slate. Saale-Unstrut and Sachsen, the most northerly and easterly regions, are small and make dry whites mostly sold and drunk locally.

Ahr · Saale-Unstrut · Sachsen

Style: Ahr: Pinot Noir; east: dry whites

Look for: Ahr Spätburgunder, Sachsen and Saale-Unstrut dry whites

'Wehlener Sonnenuhr' = village Wehlen + vineyard Sonnenuhr.

German labels add '-er' to the village name, then the vineyard. Read: producer, village + vineyard, grape, ripeness word (Kabinett...), then sweetness word (trocken...). Each word answers a different question.

German labels add '-er' to the village name, then the vineyard. Read: producer, village + vineyard, grape, ripeness word (Kabinett...), then sweetness word (trocken...). Each word answers a different question.

Tip: Order of reading: producer, place, grape, ripeness, sweetness

No sweetness word plus Kabinett or Spätlese? Expect some sweetness.

A Riesling Kabinett or Spätlese with no 'trocken' or 'feinherb' - especially from the Mosel - is usually lightly sweet with low alcohol. Wonderful with spicy food, less so with steak.

A Riesling Kabinett or Spätlese with no 'trocken' or 'feinherb' - especially from the Mosel - is usually lightly sweet with low alcohol. Wonderful with spicy food, less so with steak.

Tip: No sweetness word + Prädikat + low alcohol = sweet-leaning

Beware look-alike names: big blended areas can sound like top vineyards.

'Piesporter Goldtröpfchen' is a great single vineyard; 'Piesporter Michelsberg' is a large district of mostly cheap wine. Newer labels put the word 'Region' before such district names, which makes the trap easier to spot.

'Piesporter Goldtröpfchen' is a great single vineyard; 'Piesporter Michelsberg' is a large district of mostly cheap wine. Newer labels put the word 'Region' before such district names, which makes the trap easier to spot.

Tip: On older vintages, a famous village name at a very low price usually means a blended district (Grosslage)

On Sekt, 'trocken' is sweet-ish - choose Brut or Extra Brut for dry.

Sparkling wine uses its own sweetness scale, and 'trocken' sits well on the sweet side of Brut; 'halbtrocken' is sweeter still. Many supermarket Sekts are trocken - pleasant, but noticeably sweet.

Sparkling wine uses its own sweetness scale, and 'trocken' sits well on the sweet side of Brut; 'halbtrocken' is sweeter still. Many supermarket Sekts are trocken - pleasant, but noticeably sweet.

Tip: Sparkling: Brut Nature < Extra Brut < Brut < extra trocken < trocken < halbtrocken

A.P. Nr.: the official test number every quality wine carries.

The Amtliche Prüfungsnummer shows the wine passed lab analysis and a tasting panel. It encodes the region, the producer and the test year - a sign of control, not of excellence.

The Amtliche Prüfungsnummer shows the wine passed lab analysis and a tasting panel. It encodes the region, the producer and the test year - a sign of control, not of excellence.

Tip: The A.P. number proves testing - not quality

Prädikatswein: top legal tier, graded by grape ripeness - never sugar-boosted.

Quality wine from a named German region whose grapes reached a set natural ripeness: Kabinett, Spätlese, Auslese and up. No sugar may be added. The level tells you ripeness - the wine can still be dry or sweet.

Quality wine from a named German region whose grapes reached a set natural ripeness: Kabinett, Spätlese, Auslese and up. No sugar may be added. The level tells you ripeness - the wine can still be dry or sweet.

Quality wine with a ripeness grade (Kabinett to TBA, Eiswein)

Spot it: A Prädikat word on the label: Kabinett, Spätlese, Auslese, Beerenauslese, Trockenbeerenauslese, Eiswein

Qualitätswein: from one named region, tested - the bulk of good German wine.

Comes entirely from one named wine region (Anbaugebiet) and must pass an official test. Sugar may be added before fermentation. Many of Germany's best dry wines, including the top VDP bottles, sit here by choice.

Comes entirely from one named wine region (Anbaugebiet) and must pass an official test. Sugar may be added before fermentation. Many of Germany's best dry wines, including the top VDP bottles, sit here by choice.

Quality wine from one named region

Spot it: 'Qualitätswein' plus the region name (Mosel, Pfalz...) and an A.P. number

Landwein: country wine from a broad area, usually dry or off-dry.

The regional tier with looser rules and broad area names. It is mostly simple wine, though a few independent-minded growers use it to escape the rules of the tiers above.

The regional tier with looser rules and broad area names. It is mostly simple wine, though a few independent-minded growers use it to escape the rules of the tiers above.

Protected geographical indication (IGP): broad area, flexible rules

Spot it: 'Landwein' with a broad area name, e.g. 'Landwein der Mosel', 'Pfälzer Landwein'

Deutscher Wein: plain table wine, no region named.

The base tier (formerly Tafelwein): German grapes, no protected origin. Fine for a spritzer, rarely worth carrying home.

The base tier (formerly Tafelwein): German grapes, no protected origin. Fine for a spritzer, rarely worth carrying home.

Wine without a geographical indication

Spot it: 'Deutscher Wein' and no region name

New origin ladder: the smaller the place named, the higher the ambition.

Quality wine is now also ranked by origin: region, then district (labelled 'Region'), then village (Ortswein), then single vineyard (Lagenwein). The smaller the place, the riper the grapes and the more ambitious the wine.

Germany has moved toward the French and Italian idea that a narrower origin promises more. Inside Qualitätswein and Prädikatswein the steps run: Anbaugebiet (one of the wine regions), Region (a broad district - the word 'Region' now appears before old district names), Ortswein (a village wine) and Lagenwein (a single vineyard, always shown with its village). Village and vineyard wines need riper grapes and are released later than basic regional wine, and borrowing a more famous neighbouring village's name is no longer allowed. Prädikat words still apply on top, so 'Ortswein' and 'Spätlese' can share a label. For the traveler: the village wine from a good estate is the value sweet spot, and a vineyard name marks the producer's ambition.

Origin pyramid within quality wine: estate/region, village, single vineyard

Spot it: A village name ('Wehlener') or village + vineyard ('Wehlener Sonnenuhr'); 'Region' before a district name

Erstes and Grosses Gewächs: Germany's legal 'first' and 'great growth' terms.

The law now reserves Erstes Gewächs and Grosses Gewächs for dry wines from classified single vineyards, with lower yields, riper grapes and later release. For now, the GGs you'll find are VDP wines made under the association's own rules.

The national top tier borrows the VDP's vocabulary. Under the reformed law, Erstes Gewächs (first growth) and Grosses Gewächs (great growth) sit above the plain single-vineyard wine. Both must be dry and carry no Prädikat word, and both come from lower yields, riper grapes and a later release than ordinary vineyard wines; Grosses Gewächs must also be hand-picked. Awarding the terms falls to a committee co-founded by the VDP and the national winegrowers' association, which is still building its site classification. So in practice, nearly every GG on the shelf today is a VDP wine made under the association's own rules - and the producer's name tells you more than the legal wording. If you see 'Erstes Gewächs' on a non-VDP label, read it as a dry, single-vineyard wine from the estate's better sites.

Legally protected terms for dry wines from classified single vineyards

Spot it: 'Erstes Gewächs' or 'Grosses Gewächs' / 'GG' on the label

Kabinett, Spätlese, Auslese: riper and riper grapes - not automatically sweeter.

Kabinett is the lightest and most delicate, Spätlese ('late harvest') riper and fuller, Auslese ('selected') riper still, from hand-picked bunches. Each can be fermented dry or left with natural sweetness; add 'trocken' and it's dry.

Kabinett is the lightest and most delicate, Spätlese ('late harvest') riper and fuller, Auslese ('selected') riper still, from hand-picked bunches. Each can be fermented dry or left with natural sweetness; add 'trocken' and it's dry.

Prädikat ripeness levels, lightest to richest

Watch out: Without 'trocken', Mosel Kabinett and Spätlese are usually sweet-leaning and low in alcohol

Beerenauslese, TBA and Eiswein: rare, intensely sweet, age for decades.

Beerenauslese uses selected overripe berries, often with noble rot; Trockenbeerenauslese (TBA) needs shrivelled, botrytised berries and is Germany's priciest wine. Eiswein is pressed from grapes frozen on the vine - intensely sweet and piercingly fresh.

Beerenauslese uses selected overripe berries, often with noble rot; Trockenbeerenauslese (TBA) needs shrivelled, botrytised berries and is Germany's priciest wine. Eiswein is pressed from grapes frozen on the vine - intensely sweet and piercingly fresh.

Top sweet-wine ripeness levels

Watch out: Eiswein needs a hard frost in the vineyard; mild winters make it ever rarer - 2019 produced none at all

Trocken = dry.

A dry wine. High-acid Riesling can carry a few grams of sugar and still taste fully dry.

A dry wine. High-acid Riesling can carry a few grams of sugar and still taste fully dry.

Dry

Watch out: On Sekt, 'trocken' means noticeably sweet - see the sparkling tip

Halbtrocken and feinherb = off-dry: a touch of sweetness balancing the acid.

Halbtrocken (half-dry) is a defined label term. Feinherb is a looser producer's word for about the same or a little sweeter; many growers prefer it because 'halbtrocken' sounds cheap.

Halbtrocken (half-dry) is a defined label term. Feinherb is a looser producer's word for about the same or a little sweeter; many growers prefer it because 'halbtrocken' sounds cheap.

Off-dry

Watch out: Feinherb varies by producer - ask or check the alcohol

Lieblich = medium-sweet; süss = sweet.

Lieblich is medium-sweet; süss is fully sweet. Quality producers rarely print these words - their sweet wines rely on the Prädikat name instead.

Lieblich is medium-sweet; süss is fully sweet. Quality producers rarely print these words - their sweet wines rely on the Prädikat name instead.

Medium-sweet / sweet

Watch out: 'Lieblich' on a cheap bottle usually signals simple sugary wine

VDP eagle: member of Germany's leading private estates' association.

About 200 estates belong to the VDP and print its eagle-with-grapes logo on the capsule. They classify their own wines in four steps: Gutswein (estate), Ortswein (village), Erste Lage (first-class site) and Grosse Lage (top site).

About 200 estates belong to the VDP and print its eagle-with-grapes logo on the capsule. They classify their own wines in four steps: Gutswein (estate), Ortswein (village), Erste Lage (first-class site) and Grosse Lage (top site).

Private quality association and its four-step site classification

Watch out: Private rules, not wine law - though the law is now borrowing its terms

GG (Grosses Gewächs): the dry wine from a top VDP vineyard.

A GG is a dry wine from a VDP Grosse Lage, hand-picked from low yields and released later - Germany's answer to a grand cru. Expect concentration, structure and a price to match; it rewards a few years in bottle.

A GG is a dry wine from a VDP Grosse Lage, hand-picked from low yields and released later - Germany's answer to a grand cru. Expect concentration, structure and a price to match; it rewards a few years in bottle.

Dry wine from a top classified site

Watch out: Young GGs can be tight; the estate's Erste Lage or village wine often drinks better now

VDP vs the law: same words, different rulebooks.

The VDP keeps Prädikat names for wines with natural sweetness and labels its dry wines Qualitätswein trocken. A VDP Grosse Lage can yield both a dry GG and a sweet Spätlese or Auslese. The new national top tier is for dry wines only.

The VDP runs its own classification on the Burgundy model: Gutswein (estate wine), Ortswein (village), Erste Lage (first-class site, roughly premier cru) and Grosse Lage (top site, grand cru). Yields fall and ripeness rises as you climb, and Grosse Lage grapes must be hand-picked. Dry wines from a Grosse Lage are Grosses Gewächs (GG); sweet wines from the same site keep classic Prädikat names, so one famous Mosel slope can give a GG, a Kabinett and an Auslese in the same year. The national law overlaps but is not identical: anyone can now make an Ortswein or Lagenwein, and the legal Erstes and Grosses Gewächs are dry-only with no Prädikat, awarded by a committee the VDP co-founded. In practice, the VDP terms on today's labels still follow VDP rules.

How the private and legal systems differ

Watch out: 'Erste Lage' on a VDP label is a site rank; 'Erstes Gewächs' under the law is a dry wine category

Sekt is German sparkling wine - check where the grapes came from.

Plain 'Sekt' can be made in Germany from imported base wine, usually in tanks. 'Deutscher Sekt' uses German grapes, and 'Sekt b.A.' comes from one named German region. For quality, look for a region and a grape - Riesling Sekt is the local classic.

Plain 'Sekt' can be made in Germany from imported base wine, usually in tanks. 'Deutscher Sekt' uses German grapes, and 'Sekt b.A.' comes from one named German region. For quality, look for a region and a grape - Riesling Sekt is the local classic.

German sparkling-wine categories by grape origin

Watch out: Most Sekt is cheap tank-made fizz; the good stuff names a region

Winzersekt and 'Flaschengärung': grower fizz made like Champagne.

Winzersekt is grower sparkling from the estate's own grapes, made by the traditional method with grape and vintage stated. 'Traditionelle Flaschengärung' on any label means second fermentation in the bottle - only a tiny share of German fizz.

Germany drinks more sparkling wine than almost anywhere, but bottle-fermented Sekt is a small, rising niche. Winzersekt comes from the producer's own vineyards within one region, is made by the traditional method and states grape and vintage. VDP estates also follow their own Sekt rules, with stricter yields, hand harvest and lees-aging tiers that climb from VDP.Sekt to vintage-dated Jahrgangssekt and Sekt Prestige - the longer on the lees, the more toast and depth. Riesling gives a lean, citrus-and-apple style; Pinot-based Sekt is rounder and closer to Champagne. For a celebration bottle on a German trip, a long-aged Winzersekt from a top grower is the local high end - and usually far better value than imported Champagne.

Grower sparkling, traditional method

Watch out: 'Bottle-fermented' alone can also mean the cheaper transfer method; 'traditionelle Flaschengärung' is the one to look for

Gutsabfüllung / Erzeugerabfüllung: estate-grown and estate-bottled.

Both mean the producer grew the grapes, made the wine and bottled it; Gutsabfüllung adds that the cellar master is professionally trained. Co-operatives may use Erzeugerabfüllung too. A plain 'abgefüllt von' only names the bottler.

Both mean the producer grew the grapes, made the wine and bottled it; Gutsabfüllung adds that the cellar master is professionally trained. Co-operatives may use Erzeugerabfüllung too. A plain 'abgefüllt von' only names the bottler.

Estate-bottled / producer-bottled

Watch out: A sign of a grower, not a quality guarantee

Weissherbst is single-grape rosé; Rotling mixes red and white grapes.

Rosé may also be labelled Weissherbst (one variety, named on the label). Rotling is pressed and fermented from red and white grapes together; Schillerwein is Württemberg's traditional Rotling.

Rosé may also be labelled Weissherbst (one variety, named on the label). Rotling is pressed and fermented from red and white grapes together; Schillerwein is Württemberg's traditional Rotling.

German rosé styles

Watch out: Often light and off-dry - check for 'trocken' if you want it dry

Classic: a harmonious, dry-ish wine from a region's traditional grape.

A label term for single-variety wines from a region's traditional grapes, made in a harmonious, dry-tasting style. Reliable, food-friendly and inexpensive.

A label term for single-variety wines from a region's traditional grapes, made in a harmonious, dry-tasting style. Reliable, food-friendly and inexpensive.

Dry or nearly dry wine from a classic regional grape

Watch out: Can carry slight sweetness despite tasting dry

Riesling: Germany's star - lime, peach, slate and electric acidity.

Nearly a quarter of German vineyards. Green apple and lime in the Mosel, ripe peach in the Pfalz and Rheingau, always with high acidity. Bone dry to lusciously sweet, never new-oaked, and it ages beautifully into honey and petrol notes.

Nearly a quarter of German vineyards. Green apple and lime in the Mosel, ripe peach in the Pfalz and Rheingau, always with high acidity. Bone dry to lusciously sweet, never new-oaked, and it ages beautifully into honey and petrol notes.

white

Tastes like: Green apple, lime, peach, flowers, high acidity

Where it shines: Mosel, Rheingau, Nahe, Pfalz, Rheinhessen

Order: A Mosel Kabinett at lunch; a dry Pfalz or Rheingau Riesling with dinner

Spätburgunder: German Pinot Noir - red cherry, silky, increasingly serious.

Germany's leading red, about a third of red plantings. Warmer years and better farming have lifted it from pale and sweetish to fragrant, fine wines, especially from Baden, Pfalz and the Ahr.

Germany's leading red, about a third of red plantings. Warmer years and better farming have lifted it from pale and sweetish to fragrant, fine wines, especially from Baden, Pfalz and the Ahr.

red

Tastes like: Red cherry, raspberry, earth, silky tannin

Where it shines: Baden (Kaiserstuhl), Pfalz, Ahr, Assmannshausen (Rheingau)

Order: A village-level Spätburgunder with game or duck

Müller-Thurgau (Rivaner): soft, mild everyday white.

Once far more widely planted, still Germany's third grape. Gentle, floral and low in acid - the base of much cheap wine, though careful growers make pleasant, easy summer whites. Drink young.

Once far more widely planted, still Germany's third grape. Gentle, floral and low in acid - the base of much cheap wine, though careful growers make pleasant, easy summer whites. Drink young.

white

Tastes like: Peach, flowers, soft acidity

Where it shines: Franken, Rheinhessen, Baden

Order: A carafe in a wine tavern, or as a Schorle

Grauburgunder: Pinot Gris - fuller, pear and nutty, usually dry.

Fast-growing and now about 8% of plantings. Richer than Italian Pinot Grigio, with pear, almond and a creamy texture; best from warm Baden and the Pfalz.

Fast-growing and now about 8% of plantings. Richer than Italian Pinot Grigio, with pear, almond and a creamy texture; best from warm Baden and the Pfalz.

white

Tastes like: Pear, almond, creamy texture

Where it shines: Baden (Kaiserstuhl), Pfalz, Rheinhessen

Order: Grauburgunder trocken with white asparagus or poultry

Weissburgunder: Pinot Blanc - fresh, gentle, very food-friendly.

Apple, citrus and a light nuttiness with moderate acidity - quieter than Riesling, easy with food. Top growers make barrel-aged versions with real depth.

Apple, citrus and a light nuttiness with moderate acidity - quieter than Riesling, easy with food. Top growers make barrel-aged versions with real depth.

white

Tastes like: Apple, citrus, light nuttiness

Where it shines: Pfalz, Baden, Rheinhessen

Order: Weissburgunder with Spargel (white asparagus) in spring

Silvaner: earthy, savoury, quietly mineral - Franken's pride.

Less acid and less fruity than Riesling, with herbal, earthy notes and a firm texture. On Franken's best slopes it makes serious dry wine; Rheinhessen grows a lot too.

Less acid and less fruity than Riesling, with herbal, earthy notes and a firm texture. On Franken's best slopes it makes serious dry wine; Rheinhessen grows a lot too.

white

Tastes like: Green herbs, pear, earth

Where it shines: Franken, Rheinhessen

Order: Franken Silvaner trocken in a Bocksbeutel with asparagus or freshwater fish

Scheurebe: Riesling's wild child - grapefruit and blackcurrant.

A century-old Rheinhessen crossing with Riesling as one parent. Grapefruit, blackcurrant and tropical notes with bracing acidity, from dry to nobly sweet. A distinctive local find, rarely seen abroad.

A century-old Rheinhessen crossing with Riesling as one parent. Grapefruit, blackcurrant and tropical notes with bracing acidity, from dry to nobly sweet. A distinctive local find, rarely seen abroad.

white

Tastes like: Grapefruit, blackcurrant, passion fruit

Where it shines: Rheinhessen, Pfalz, Nahe, Franken

Order: A dry Scheurebe as aperitif or with Asian-style dishes

Lemberger: Blaufränkisch by another name - peppery, dark cherry.

Württemberg's most serious red: sour cherry, blackberry and pepper with fresh acidity and medium tannin. Simple versions are juicy; top ones age well.

Württemberg's most serious red: sour cherry, blackberry and pepper with fresh acidity and medium tannin. Simple versions are juicy; top ones age well.

red

Tastes like: Dark cherry, blackberry, pepper

Where it shines: Württemberg

Order: Lemberger with roast pork or Swabian Maultaschen

Trollinger: pale, light, fruity red - Württemberg's everyday glass.

Almost all German Trollinger grows in Württemberg, where locals drink it young and lightly chilled by the quarter-litre. Simple and refreshing rather than profound.

Almost all German Trollinger grows in Württemberg, where locals drink it young and lightly chilled by the quarter-litre. Simple and refreshing rather than profound.

red

Tastes like: Red berries, light body, low tannin

Where it shines: Württemberg

Order: A glass of Trollinger in a Stuttgart Besen

Schwarzriesling: Pinot Meunier - soft, fruity local red, no relation to Riesling.

The Champagne grape Meunier under a German name. In Württemberg it gives light, cherry-fruited reds and rosé, and goes into some Sekt.

The Champagne grape Meunier under a German name. In Württemberg it gives light, cherry-fruited reds and rosé, and goes into some Sekt.

red

Tastes like: Cherry, soft and light

Where it shines: Württemberg

Order: Schwarzriesling Weissherbst on a summer terrace

Dornfelder: deep purple, soft and fruity - easy-drinking red.

A German crossing prized for colour: inky, plummy and soft. Mostly simple and inexpensive, sometimes with a touch of sweetness; a few growers oak it for more weight.

A German crossing prized for colour: inky, plummy and soft. Mostly simple and inexpensive, sometimes with a touch of sweetness; a few growers oak it for more weight.

red

Tastes like: Plum, blackberry, soft tannin

Where it shines: Pfalz, Rheinhessen

Order: Dornfelder trocken with a hearty sausage platter

PIWI grapes: new disease-resistant varieties for low-spray farming.

Fungus-resistant varieties such as Souvignier Gris and Cabernet Blanc need far less spraying and are spreading among organic and young growers - now around 3% of vineyards. Worth trying when a grower pours one.

Fungus-resistant varieties such as Souvignier Gris and Cabernet Blanc need far less spraying and are spreading among organic and young growers - now around 3% of vineyards. Worth trying when a grower pours one.

white

Tastes like: Varies: often citrus, herbs, Sauvignon-like freshness

Where it shines: Organic and young growers across Baden, Pfalz, Rheinhessen

Order: Ask the grower for their PIWI wine - a true local discovery

Weinstube: the wine tavern - local wines by the glass, hearty food.

In wine towns, a Weinstube serves the region's own wines by the glass or carafe with regional dishes. It's the easiest way to taste several local producers in one sitting.

In wine towns, a Weinstube serves the region's own wines by the glass or carafe with regional dishes. It's the easiest way to taste several local producers in one sitting.

Tip: Ask for 'ein Glas vom Weingut...' - the list usually names the grower

Strausswirtschaft / Besen: a grower's pop-up tavern - only their own wine.

For a few months a year, growers open their farm rooms and serve their own wine with simple food. A broom or bunch of twigs hung at the door means open. Called Besenwirtschaft in Württemberg, Hecken- or Häckerwirtschaft in Franken.

For a few months a year, growers open their farm rooms and serve their own wine with simple food. A broom or bunch of twigs hung at the door means open. Called Besenwirtschaft in Württemberg, Hecken- or Häckerwirtschaft in Franken.

Tip: Look for a broom or green bunch over the door

Weinschorle: wine and sparkling water - the local summer drink.

'Sauer' is wine with mineral water, 'süss' with lemonade. In the Pfalz it's mostly wine with a splash of water, served by the half-litre in the dimpled Dubbeglas.

'Sauer' is wine with mineral water, 'süss' with lemonade. In the Pfalz it's mostly wine with a splash of water, served by the half-litre in the dimpled Dubbeglas.

Tip: Order 'eine Schorle sauer' for the dry version

Autumn treat: Federweisser with onion tart.

From early September to late October, partly fermented, cloudy, sweet young wine (about 4-5% alcohol) appears in taverns and shops. It's traditionally paired with Zwiebelkuchen, a warm onion tart.

From early September to late October, partly fermented, cloudy, sweet young wine (about 4-5% alcohol) appears in taverns and shops. It's traditionally paired with Zwiebelkuchen, a warm onion tart.

Tip: Drink it within a day or two - it keeps fermenting

Off-dry Riesling tames spicy food; dry Riesling cuts rich dishes.

A touch of sweetness and low alcohol calm chilli heat, so a Kabinett or feinherb is ideal with Thai or Indian food. The high acidity of dry Riesling or Silvaner cuts through pork, cream sauces and fried dishes.

A touch of sweetness and low alcohol calm chilli heat, so a Kabinett or feinherb is ideal with Thai or Indian food. The high acidity of dry Riesling or Silvaner cuts through pork, cream sauces and fried dishes.

Tip: Spicy = Kabinett or feinherb; rich = trocken

Finish with Auslese or Beerenauslese - at least as sweet as dessert.

A sweet wine must match the sweetness of the dish or it tastes sour. A glass of Auslese with fruit tart, or a nobly sweet wine with blue cheese, is a classic German ending.

A sweet wine must match the sweetness of the dish or it tastes sour. A glass of Auslese with fruit tart, or a nobly sweet wine with blue cheese, is a classic German ending.

Tip: Ask: 'Haben Sie eine Auslese offen?'

Buy at the estate: Ab-Hof prices and wines never exported.

Most estates gladly sell a few bottles directly. It's where you'll find small cuvées, older vintages and the full Prädikat range, often at fair prices. After a free tasting, buying a couple of bottles is the custom.

Most estates gladly sell a few bottles directly. It's where you'll find small cuvées, older vintages and the full Prädikat range, often at fair prices. After a free tasting, buying a couple of bottles is the custom.

Tip: Ask for older vintages and the estate's village wine

Co-op shops: strong value, especially in Württemberg and Baden.

In the south-west, co-operatives make most of the wine and run shops with wide, cheap ranges. Quality varies, but the better co-ops' top lines are reliable buys.

In the south-west, co-operatives make most of the wine and run shops with wide, cheap ranges. Quality varies, but the better co-ops' top lines are reliable buys.

Tip: Pick the co-op's top line rather than its cheapest litre bottle

Supermarkets: fine for staples - look for a named grower and region.

German supermarkets carry plenty of cheap wine. Skip Liebfraumilch and plain Deutscher Wein; pick a named estate, a village name or the VDP eagle, and check for 'trocken' if you want dry.

German supermarkets carry plenty of cheap wine. Skip Liebfraumilch and plain Deutscher Wein; pick a named estate, a village name or the VDP eagle, and check for 'trocken' if you want dry.

Tip: Producer + region + sweetness word = a safe pick

Wine shops and Vinotheken: advice and a curated local range.

A specialist shop or a Vinothek (wine shop and tasting room, often run by an estate or a town) lets you compare producers before buying. Staff will steer you by style and sweetness.

A specialist shop or a Vinothek (wine shop and tasting room, often run by an estate or a town) lets you compare producers before buying. Staff will steer you by style and sweetness.

Tip: Say 'trocken', 'feinherb' or 'süss' up front - it narrows the shelf fast

Book estate visits about a week ahead - don't just turn up.

Many estates are small family businesses, and an unannounced visit can find the gate locked. Email or call ahead; tastings are usually seated and guided, often by the owner. Check opening hours for weekends and holidays.

Many estates are small family businesses, and an unannounced visit can find the gate locked. Email or call ahead; tastings are usually seated and guided, often by the owner. Check opening hours for weekends and holidays.

Tip: Email a week ahead; confirm the day before

Free tasting? Buy a couple of bottles.

Where a tasting costs a fee, no purchase is expected. Where it's free, buying at least two bottles is the polite custom.

Where a tasting costs a fee, no purchase is expected. Where it's free, buying at least two bottles is the polite custom.

Tip: Ask about shipping - many estates have an importer abroad

Driving: limit 0.5 per mille; zero for under-21s and new drivers.

The general limit is 0.5 g/L, and you can be penalised from 0.3 if your driving shows impairment. Drivers under 21 or in their two-year probation must have zero alcohol. Spit at tastings or choose a driver.

The general limit is 0.5 g/L, and you can be penalised from 0.3 if your driving shows impairment. Drivers under 21 or in their two-year probation must have zero alcohol. Spit at tastings or choose a driver.

Tip: Spitting is normal - ask for a spittoon

Carrying wine home: pack it well or ask about shipping.

Bottles travel well in checked luggage, wrapped in wine sleeves or clothes. Sweet wines often come in half bottles, which pack more easily. Many estates also have an importer abroad - ask before you carry a case.

Bottles travel well in checked luggage, wrapped in wine sleeves or clothes. Sweet wines often come in half bottles, which pack more easily. Many estates also have an importer abroad - ask before you carry a case.

Tip: Pack bottles in checked luggage with wine sleeves

Late summer and autumn: wine festivals, Federweisser - and busy cellars.

Village wine festivals cluster in late summer and early autumn, and harvest runs from September into October, sometimes later for sweet wines. Estates are busy then, so book early and expect shorter visits.

Village wine festivals cluster in late summer and early autumn, and harvest runs from September into October, sometimes later for sweet wines. Estates are busy then, so book early and expect shorter visits.

Tip: Check the local Weinfest calendar when planning dates